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Universal Genève 17305

This is a self-winding dress watch from Universal Genève, produced during the late 1950s to early 1960s for the US market; an era in which the brand was revered for its innovation and refined aesthetics. The case is crafted in 14-karat solid gold, showcasing an elegant round profile with sharply faceted, downturned lugs and a mirror-polished bezel that captures light with subtle brilliance. The case back is signed and hallmarked, bearing the reference number 17305, consistent with models from this transitional period of the brand’s post-war resurgence. The dial is a warm champagne tone, finished with a soft satin sunburst texture that radiates discreet sophistication. There is no lume on this example, marking it an ideal companion for your next elevated social event. The applied hour markers are arrowhead and baton-shaped indices in high-polish gold tone, paired with matching dauphine hands, all of which evoke the refined minimalism emblematic of mid-century Swiss design. At 12 o’clock, the applied “U” logo is crisp and proudly placed above the UNIVERSAL GENÈVE signature. The watch features an automatic 'Microtor' Micro-rotor movement, Universal Genève’s in-house 218 caliber; renowned for it's slim profile and mechanical reliability. The original signed crown, marked with a distinct "U," remains intact, and the watch is mounted on a modern dark blue leather strap that complements its elevated tone while adding a contemporary flourish. Despite its age, the watch presents in excellent condition. The case retains its sharp lines and original definition. The dial is remarkably well-preserved, with no apparent spotting or degradation. The crystal and hands remain clear and unmarred, suggesting careful storage or minimal use over the decades.

Light Play

See how the case and dial come alive under changing light — a short loop that captures its presence on the wrist.

Provenance & Details

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About the Maison

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève became a benchmark of Swiss horological excellence through its early mastery of chronograph movements and its commitment to elegance. The brand gained prominence with its Polerouter, Compax, and Microtor-powered timepieces, many of which were favored by world travelers and military personnel. By the 1950s and 60s, Universal Genève was considered among the top-tier Swiss maisons, often mentioned alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin for its design-forward approach and mechanical prowess.

References & Further Reading

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